CaliToday (25/11/2025): It is officially that time of year. As Thanksgiving and Christmas approach, home kitchens everywhere are dusting off rolling pins and preheating ovens. But for many amateur bakers, one specific task induces a unique form of anxiety: making the pie crust from scratch.
Door County cherry pie, like this one from the Crystal Cafe in Iola, pictured on Jan. 5, 2010, is a favorite in Wisconsin.
It can be a daunting challenge. Will it be tough? Will it shrink? Will it have that elusive flaky texture?
To help you conquer your crust fears, we reached out to the true experts the professional bakers of the Milwaukee area who churn out thousands of pies every season. From "secret" ingredients to the importance of temperature, here is their masterclass on baking the perfect pie.
Rule #1: Don’t Panic
The first step to a great crust is mental. "I think a lot of people are afraid of crust, and it's actually one of the most rewarding and easy things to do once you develop a system," says Stephanie Shipley, owner of Amaranth Bakery & Café.
Johnathan Dye, the owner of Mr. Dye's Pies, agrees. He notes that while baking is often viewed as a "super exact science," home cooks shouldn't let that paralyze them. "Don't take it too seriously," Dye advises. It’s supposed to be fun.
The Foundation: It’s All About the Fat
If there is one consensus among Milwaukee’s pros, it is this: do not skimp on the butter.
"Use good, quality ingredients, and the more butter the better," says Kari Day of The Elegant Farmer in Mukwonago, famous for their paper-bag-baked apple pies.
Go European
Valeri Lucks, founder of Pie Inc. (which operates Honeypie Cafe and SmallPie), along with Allison Collard of The Bake Sale, emphasize looking for butter with a higher fat content and lower water content. This is often found in "European-style" butters. Lower-quality butter contains more water, which evaporates and can lead to a tougher dough.
Shipley adds that cultured butter is a secret weapon, as its enzymes enhance the crust's flavor depth.
The Lard Alternative
For those chasing the ultimate old-school texture, Pat McGinnis of Kelly's Pot Pies & More swears by a different fat entirely. He says the secret to a rich, flaky texture is swapping butter for lard.
Dietary Swaps
If you are baking for guests with sensitivities, you aren't out of luck. Susan Goulet of Blooming Lotus Bakery avoids traditional flours and fats entirely. She uses almond flour and a shop-made pecan butter to create rich, delicious crusts that are grain-and-dairy-free. "A lot of families now have somebody who is allergic," Goulet notes, emphasizing that everyone deserves a slice of pie.
The Technique: Keep It Ice Cold
If you remember only one tip, make it this one: Temperature is everything.
Jessica Reinhardtsen, owner of Greig Patisserie, explains that keeping the dough cold ensures the butter doesn't get "mushy" while mixing. You want small bits of solid butter remaining in the dough; when they hit the hot oven, the water inside the butter steams, creating those coveted flaky layers.
Use Ice Water: Don't use tap water. Reinhardtsen suggests water with ice cubes in it.
The Fridge is Your Friend: If your dough feels dry or is getting warm, Valeri Lucks suggests putting it in the fridge for 15 minutes to let the "water and flour work their magic" before panicking and adding more liquid.
Bake from Frozen: Greig Patisserie actually bakes their pies from a frozen state to prevent the dough from shrinking in the oven.
Hydration Hacks: Vodka and Lemon Juice?
Water binds the dough, but too much of it creates gluten, which results in a chewy, tough crust.
The Acid Trip: Stephanie Shipley suggests adding a splash of lemon juice to your water. The acid inhibits gluten formation, keeping the crust tender.
The Boozy Boost: Johnathan Dye notes that you can substitute water with vodka. Because alcohol evaporates faster than water in the oven, it leaves behind a flaky texture without the toughness.
Troubleshooting: The Dreaded "Shrink"
Nothing is worse than a crust that slides down the sides of the pan. To prevent this, Reinhardtsen recommends "blind baking" (par-baking) the crust.
Line your raw dough with aluminum foil and fill it with dried beans or rice to weigh it down. Bake it partially to set the structure. Then, remove the weights and foil, add your filling, and finish baking.
Recipe: Chef Shane's Easy & Delicious Pie Crust
Ready to give it a try? Chef Shane Rowe, owner of Bishop's Sweets & Catering, shared his go-to recipe. "My philosophy is simple: keep it cold, keep it minimal, and let the butter do the talking," Rowe says.
Yields: One double crust or two single crusts.
Ingredients
2 ½ cups All-purpose flour
1 tsp Salt
1 tbsp Sugar (optional, for sweet pies)
1 cup (2 sticks) Unsalted butter, cold and cut into cubes
6–8 tbsp Ice-cold water
Directions
Mix Dry Ingredients: In a large bowl, combine the flour, salt, and sugar.
Cut in the Butter: Add the cold butter cubes. Use a pastry cutter or a fork to blend until the mixture looks like coarse crumbs with some pea-sized pieces of butter remaining.
Add Water: Slowly drizzle in the ice water, one tablespoon at a time. Mix gently with a fork until the dough just starts to come together. Stop! Do not overmix. The dough should look slightly shaggy.
Chill: Gather the dough into a ball and divide it in half. Flatten each half into a disk, wrap tightly in plastic wrap, and refrigerate for at least 1 hour (overnight is best).
Roll: On a lightly floured surface, roll one disk into a 12-inch circle. Place into your pie pan.
Bake: Add your filling and crimp the edges. For a golden finish, brush the crust with an egg wash (1 beaten egg + 1 tbsp water) before baking according to your specific pie recipe.