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| Village iof Ushguli, Caucasus Mountains, Georgia - Tawatchaiprakobkit/Getty Images |
Nestled in the remote, staggering peaks of Georgia lies one of Europe's most beautiful and profoundly underrated mountain paradises. This is a land of myth and hospitality, a place where historical evidence of winemaking dates back over 8,000 years, rightfully earning it the title "birthplace of wine." It’s a country celebrated for its legendary hospitality and once named the seventh-safest country to visit. Yet, bafflingly, it remains one of Europe's least-visited destinations.
For the intrepid traveler, this obscurity is its greatest asset. Deep in the heart of the country, the Svaneti region offers a trekking experience unlike any other, culminating in a village that seems lifted from a fairy tale: Ushguli.
The Epic Journey to a Forgotten Land
The adventure begins in Mestia, a remote and quintessentially Georgian village that serves as the Svaneti region's main hub. Reaching it is a journey in itself, a deliberate pilgrimage that filters out the casual tourist. The overland trek from Tbilisi's international airport takes almost nine hours, but this is a welcome decompression from the modern world.
The most scenic route involves flying into Tbilisi, then taking a six-to-seven-hour express train to Zugdidi. This ride is a detox from digital life with no Wi-Fi or dining cars, you are invited to simply watch the world go by. The journey winds through Georgia's stunningly diverse countryside, past remote villages, rushing rivers, and the canyons of Kutaisi, with the mighty Caucasus Mountains growing ever-larger on the horizon. From Zugdidi, a final three-hour shared minibus, or marshrutka, snakes its way up the mountains to Mestia, your base camp for entering Svaneti's imposing, yet welcoming, heart.
The Classic Trek: Feasting from Village to Village
Mestia is the starting point for the most popular multi-day hike in the country: a 3-4 day, moderately difficult trek that connects a string of ancient villages, culminating in Ushguli.
This is the "hiker's paradise" for those who love the mountains but dislike the logistics of camping. Part of the majestic Caucasus range home to Europe's highest peaks the trail is well-marked and passes through several local villages. Each night, instead of pitching a tent, you’ll stay in a family-run guesthouse.
This is where Georgia's legendary hospitality comes alive. Trekkers arrive, tired and happy, to be greeted with a supra (a traditional feast) of local fare: fresh khachapuri (bubbling cheese bread), sulguni cheese, homemade jams, rich stews, and, of course, bottomless glasses of homemade Georgian wine. It’s an experience of cultural immersion and culinary delight that typical camping treks can never offer.
Ushguli: A Medieval Time Capsule at the Top of Europe
Your final destination, Ushguli, is a place that defies time. As one of the highest permanent settlements in Europe, this community is a living UNESCO World Heritage site, comprising four closely aligned ancient villages (Zhibiani, Chvibianu, Murkmeli, and Chazhashi).
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| Wine glasses with Shkhara Mountain in background - maradon 333/Shutterstock |
The first impression is primal. Horses, cows, and pigs roam freely through the mud-and-manure-caked streets, weaving between the village's iconic 9th-century Svan towers. These stone defensive structures were built to protect families from invaders and avalanches, and they give the entire village a grim, medieval beauty.
Despite a population of only 200, Ushguli is an active town. You can settle into a cozy guesthouse and explore several local restaurants and bars, like the popular Cafe Koshki, to refuel.
Wine, Dine, and Hike: Adventures from Ushguli
Ushguli is the endpoint of the Georgian portion of the Transcaucasian Trail, a monumental project that will one day be the world's longest continuous hiking route. As such, the hiking opportunities are world-class.
The most famous excursion is the imposing five-to-six-hour round-trip trek to the foot of the Shkhara Glacier. This is the highest peak in Georgia, and the trail follows the Enguri River Valley toward its formidable, icy face.
And here, the promise of "dining on the trail" becomes wonderfully literal. Hikers are often astonished to find, "in the middle of nowhere," a small, rustic stand selling cold beer and fresh shashlik (shish kebabs) sizzling over an open fire. There is arguably no better-earned meal on earth than a hot, smoky kebab and a cold beer enjoyed in the shadow of a massive glacier.
For less strenuous days, a two-hour hike leads to Tamar's Castle, a crumbling fortress named for Georgia's legendary 12th-century warrior queen. A slightly longer three-to-four-hour trek brings you to the Chubedishi Viewpoint for breathtaking panoramas.
The Adventure Continues: Glaciers and Lakes from Mestia
After your multi-day trek, a local driver can taxi you back to Mestia (an exhilaratingly bumpy one-hour ride) to explore more of the region's wonders.
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| The Cross over Mestia, Caucasus Mountains, Georgia - alexm94/Shutterstock |
A popular day hike from Mestia leads to the Chalaadi Glacier, a stunning trail that winds through lush forests, over streams, and between towering valleys. For the truly ambitious, the more remote Lekhziri Glacier offers a multi-day trek. Or, tackle the challenging day hike up to the crystal-clear Koruldi Lakes, a series of alpine pools that reflect the sky and the surrounding snow-capped peaks.
Planning Your Georgian Odyssey
When to Go: The hiking season is from June to October. June offers lush greenery but a higher chance of rain. September and early October are often considered perfect, with clear skies, comfortable temperatures, and autumn colors, though be prepared for potential snowfall later in the month.
What to Pack: The weather is mountainous and unpredictable. Layers are essential. You must have waterproof gear, especially high-quality hiking boots. The sun is intense at this altitude, so a hat, sunglasses, and plenty of sunscreen are non-negotiable.
This is not just a hike; it's a journey into the past, a culinary adventure, and a genuine discovery, all rolled into one affordable package.
